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Leading up to this trip, I had people asking me if I was going to do a DMZ tour. I honestly hadn't given it any thought and when I finally did the idea scared me (if you don't know, the DMZ or Demilitarized Zone is essentially a 4km border between North and South Korea). The more I looked into it and talked to people about it, though, the more intriguing it became and I decided I wanted to go. I looked into all my possible options and decided I wanted a DMZ/JSA tour and found one through the USO for a reasonable price.

DMZ Sign

The first stop on the tour was to the 3rd infiltration tunnel. Since the war ended, South Korea has found 4 tunnels that North Korea was in the process of making to use for a sneak attack on South Korea. As the name suggests, this is the 3rd tunnel that was found. Many South Koreans believe there are around 20 more tunnels that have yet to be discovered. Before you can enter the tunnel, you have to leave all bags and cell phones/cameras in a locker and go through security (no pictures are allowed in the tunnel for security reasons). You walk down a steep, long path to the tunnel itself and once you reach the tunnel you can walk a few hundred meters to where it has been walled off. The tunnel is very short in height and narrow in width, and at the end are 3 bulletproof walls that were installed to prevent North Korea from invading.

 

After gathering our belongings, we headed to the next stop: The Dora Observatory. From here, you can see North Korea. I was lucky to go on a clear day and I could see everything very well. It was surreal to be looking into North Korea and to be so close!

BinocularsNorth Korea landscapeNorth Korea landscape

After the Dora Observatory, we went to Dorasan Station. This is the last train station before the border. It is still in use today and could eventually be used to go between the two countries if they ever reunite (the tracks are currently connected, but no trains run between the two countries at this time, although they have in the past and even as recently as a few years ago).

Dorasan Train StationGirl in front of sign at Dorasan Train Station

After Dorasan Station, we headed to the highlight of the tour: The JSA or Joint Security Area. This is the only place where you'll find both North and South Koreans. It is where any meetings between the two countries take place and it is always staffed by military from both countries, as well as United Nations and U.S. military. We were able to see the buildings where these meetings take place and even step inside one. Halfway through this building, you are in North Korea - so I've stepped a few feet into North Korea!

Blue buildings at JSAGirl standing in front of blue buildings at JSATable and ROK SoldierROK Soldier and Girl StandingROK Soldier

I'm so happy I decided to book this tour because it was fascinating to learn more about Korean history and see things that not many people have the opportunity to see. I would highly, highly recommend it to anyone visiting Korea. It's a great reminder to be extremely thankful for the freedom we have.

The first day in South Korea for me was great. Volunteers helped me a lot on getting credential, train ticket and take taxi. Although the machine problem made my flight delayed more than 3 hours, I am worried about I could not go to the dorm on time on my way to Inchon.


I arrived Inchon airport at 7:30pm and tried to be in hurry to catch the last train to Gangneung. However, I don't have to be in that hurry. Because of this host country did a lot of things to save Olympic participants' time. The signs showed the PVC Validation Counter after I get off the plane. It has several tables to help people to exchange the temporary credentials to the official one. Volunteers work there are so friendly and polite, they provided good services and tried their best to speck English to help me. I have to say it is very easy, fast and convenience to have a special fast lane for Olympic participants. I took only 1 minute on that customer lane.


After I picked up my luggage, the other volunteer helped me on getting the train tickets. She told me that she will send me to the train station 15 minutes before departure, because there will not be any volunteers worked on the way from airport to train stations, she doesn't want me to get lost.

The process of getting to the dorm was smooth for me. After I got off the train on Gangneung Station, a volunteer helped me to take a taxi and confirm the address with the driver. I arrived at dorm at 11:50.

 

It's Super Bowl Sunday, the rides at Disneyland had an reported average 15-minute wait, the Eagles held on to the lead, and down went the League MVP and the Patriots.

I had spent an entire day out at church, a huge lunch, and watching (more so) the Super Bowl commercials than the actual game. Dead tired at 11:30pm, but still got packing to do. So I began that grind of laundrying and yelling for Sarah to bring me stuff I need. Now I would say I'm a pretty experienced flyer, given my high school and college years in the Pacific Northwest and traveling from and to Asia all the time. But other than the essentials, I thought to myself, "F- it, I'm going to the Winter Olympics! I gotta represent!" so here went a fourth of my luggage space:

If I were missing anything else it would be a GW boxer. Anyways, you get the point. I bailed packing and went straight to bed after this picture.

During SB52 I was constantly updating my Instagram story with highlights and the new INFINITY WAR trailer. But then I saw that one of my Korean friend from high school was in town. I reached out to her and was like, "Hey, I'm going to the Winter Olympics, any chance you could meet before I leave?" Next thing you know, I'm at DuPont Circle having lunch with a friend I haven't seen in 5 years. Nany is a J-1 student (a visa program of cultural and educational exchange) from South Korea and she's finishing up her prerequisites in DC before relocating to the Big Apple to work at the JFK airport, and we previously spent two years together at a boarding high school in southern Oregon, shoutout to Canyonville y'all. It's just amazing to reconnect with Nany and have a Korean 101 class, and more importantly listening to what she's been, and will be doing.

Back to packing, one thing I did differently this time was that I packed a lot of unwanted/old clothes so I could dump them on the way back with a lighter suitcase. Some of my socks, underwear, toothbrush are all up for disposal after this trip. And as of February 5th, 23:30 EST, all the essentials are in, just needs a quick rundown and I'll be off to bed yet again. 5:30 alarm be waiting on me.

Greetings from the floor of Detroit Metropolitan Airport!

girl sitting on the ground doing homework.

Dr. Neirotti has tried to give us as many tips and tricks for traveling, especially for mega events like the Olympics and her motto throughout the course has been “Be Flexible." I think we all have tried to prepare for the unexpected as much as possible but our trip to South Korea has definitely been an adventure already.

Our first lesson in flexibility was when our connecting flight got changed a few days before takeoff. Heather and I took it as a blessing because it gave us more of a layover before our international flight.

Our second lesson happened when we arrived at our gate this morning to see our flight was delayed, turning our 45-minute layover into a 12 minute-layover.

So now we have started in Philadelphia, got to Detroit, about to fly to New York-La Guardia, then a quick cab ride to New York-JFK for a red-eye to Seoul.

Flexibility is a virtue. But this is exactly why travel is so essential. It causes us to think on our feet, and look for solutions rather than problems. If anything, this has prepared us for what hiccups may come in PyeongChang.

So, I would like to create my own motto, “one man’s flight delay, is another graduate student’s study hall.” See you soon PyeongChang!

 

I've been full of Seoul puns since we got here and I'm sure my friends are really sick of seeing them on my Instagram but it hasn't stopped me yet!

 

When I found out I was accepted to this program, I knew I wanted to have a spa day in South Korea. Korean beauty products are all the rage right now so I figured their spas had to be great too. I found a spa that was highly rated and booked appointments for Caroline and I to get the "Diamond Package" which included a massage, nail design, facial, and a skin treatment.

Dragon Hill SpaEntrance to spa

Fast forward to now...when we got to the spa today, we tried to explain that we had booked this package and they kept shaking their heads "no" at us. Luckily, there was an employee who spoke English (probably for people like us...you'll understand soon) who came over to help us. We told her what we had booked and she explained that the package we chose isn't offered anymore. We told her we wanted to do the next package down and she looked at us with horror in her eyes and assured us we didn't want to do it. Apparently what we had signed up for (in both packages) was to get fully nude and, quite literally, boil ourselves. She said it was a common treatment among Korean women (not sure what the benefit is) but that she would not recommend it to anyone because the water is so hot that it burns you and you're sitting in a hole with all naked women. We quickly told her this is not what we wanted and opted for just the massage.

Laying on floor of spa

After she helped us get oriented with the spa, and showed us around the 10+ saunas, game room (yes, I'm serious), and the changing area, we went to get our massages. Don't be fooled - these are not relaxing. I've never had someone dig into my back so hard. It was incredibly painful, but I knew it would help get out the tension. The massages are not conducted in quiet rooms either - our masseuses talking to each other, leaving to go answer the phone, and the obnoxious music from the video games outside all made for an interesting experience.

Doorway

We spent some time in the different saunas after our massages were finished. Each sauna is a different temperature with a "theme." The first one we sat in was a "rock salt" room. People were laying in the rocks and on the floor (apparently that's normal) and it's a relaxing experience. The next two were shaped like the ancient pyramids - one was scented and the other was a "jade" room. There were three igloo saunas - one freezing and two very hot.

Salt SaunaSaunaJade Sauna

We played a game before leaving to get the full experience then headed on our way.

 

All this being said, I'm very glad we went and experienced a true Korean "spa," although it wasn't the same luxurious, relaxing experience we get at a spa in America. My back was sore for days to the point of feeling deeply, deeply bruised, but I don't feel as tense anymore. I'd probably visit again, but it's not something I'd need to add to my routine and I'll know what to expect next time.

Fountain

The day we've long-awaited is finally here - we are on our way to the Olympics!

Luggage on scaleTwo girls at airport

Caroline and I (along with our 34 pound bag of snacks) have a 25-hour travel time, going from DCA-LAX-ICN. It will be the longest flight I've ever taken, but I couldn't be more excited to finally visit Asia and the Olympics!

 

Leg one - DCA-LAX: Overall, not too bad. We had a good amount of leg room and were able to get some work done and sneak in a nap. When we landed in LAX, we had quite the trek from our arrival gate to the international terminal (hey, good practice for all the walking we'll be doing in PyeongChang). We stopped and grabbed something to eat and after many failed attempts of getting into an airline lounge, found a spot by a window to wait for our next flight.

 

Leg two- LAX-ICN: Getting on this plane, it was like they were trying to torture us. Every cabin you walk through gets progressively less nice and has smaller seats. Luckily, we weren't at the very back, but we were pretty close. This was easily the least leg room I've ever had on a plane, and it was going to be a long 13 hours. We ate some dinner then settled in for "bed" for the next 8 or so hours. When we woke up we only had a few hours to go and watched some TV.

Crammed legs on plane

We are finally here and are so ready for what is to come! Caroline and I will be spending 2 days sightseeing in Seoul before meeting everyone in PyeongChang. I can't wait to share my experiences with you!

Two girls in front of Olympic rings

As I exited the airport and wanted to ensure I had some local cash for food, bus ticket, train, etc. things got confusing fast. As I approached the Global ATM machine located near the exits of the airport, a woman from England was spewing vulgar language at the machine and quickly pointed out to me there was no "English" button. In fact, there was, but only for cash advances (these charge a 1% fee + about $15 from your bank to do a cash advance). After a couple attempts myself to get the machine to spit out some cash, I too, gave up and made my way to the bus ticket counter to pay with a credit card.

The following morning I noticed a bank at the bottom of my apartment. The bank was closed, but there were three Global ATM’s just inside the door with no one inside. This was my chance! Without the large crowd around, I was determined to figure out how to make the machine work, preferably in English.
After 40 minutes, I surrendered to the ATM. It had certainly won the battle, but I knew there must be a way to get cash, so I reached out to an acquaintance in the area that has lived in Seoul for eight years. He stated that usually the only ATM’s that work with foreign bank cards are at convenience stores or in the subway. So what are these ATM’s? They are the standalone machines that say 365 on them, as shown here.

In my journey to find the ATM, I tried every machine I came across during my four hours of walking the city and I did find two additional ATM machines that will give money. They are Citibank and KEB machines, but I did not see them in or near the subway.
I thought it was so strange that I couldn’t convince a machine to let me pay to get my own cash, which I want to spend in their economy, I had to know if I was just doing something wrong. So, I took to the internet to figure it out and this is what I found. From the Korean Tourism website, foreign cards will only work for cash advances, unless you are at a bank that does banking in your country (KEB or Citibank for those in the US). I’m not entirely sure why the 365 ones work, but they do. Here is the link to the Korean Tourism site for more info: http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/AK/AK_EN_1_5_5.jsp

So while you plan to make your way from the airport to the dorms, be on the lookout for the ATM machines listed in order to get cash. If you don’t see one and can’t get your card to work at the Global ATM’s in the airport, it should not be an issue. Check the subway on your way to the train, but know if you need to pay with USD, that 1 USD is worth about 1075 Korean WON and that credit cards seem to be accepted everywhere in the area.

Cheers,

Today I am in Busan, visiting friends.  Busan is in the southern region of Korea.  This is a location where the torched passed through in November of 2017 leading up to the Games, so there is a touch of the Olympic spirit here as well. At the beach they have Soohorang and Bandabi statues for people to take pictures with.

Soohorang and Bandabi in Busan !
Soohorang and Bandabi in Busan !

Additionally, there is a are disposable water bottles sold at convenience stores with the Olympic Rings.

Olympic Water
Olympic Water

I also noticed an Olympic building when riding from the Busan airport to the Marine City area. Speaking of the Airport, when riding from Seoul to Busan, Korean Air did not have any of the Olympic themed magazines or marketing items. This implies that the marketing for international flights is different than national flights, and for some reason, they did not feel the need to market internal to the country.

Korean Air From Dulles
Korean Air From Dulles

Korean Air is one of the official Korean Olympic sponsors for the Games. I was lucky enough that I found an direct flight on Korean Air on Korean Air.  So far, it’s been great! The flight staff have been super nice, one thing that took me aback was just how polished the flight attendance are.  My last flight was to/from Germany (very different experience). They had a couple items with PyeongChang 2018 Olympic branding. One was a sleep pack for the trip another was a magazine. This was the magazine for the airlines.

Morning Calm
Morning Calm

The Morning Calm had a picture of the Korean bobsled team on the front and magazine included articles about food in the regions near PyeongChang as well as a short overview of the Olympics.  Unfortunately, I forgot to reserve a seat, so I am stuck in the middle for the next 13 hours (lesson learned). Also, if you are flying from Dulles, I recommend doing web check-in. Once you get there, there may be a smaller line for web check in, as there are no automated kiosks for faster check in– I only check 2 items at it was free.  There are other people there with several boxes with shipping locations… I am not sure what that was all about, may be someone can explain that to me later.

Arriving at the Inchon incheon airport was pretty easy going, after landing I needed to stop and get my credentials laminated, the Olympic Welcome Center process was easy to find, and the line moved quickly.

ncheon Airport Credential Stop
Incheon Airport Credential Stop

I was able wonder around the airport for a bit because had a transfer to Busan to see a friend before heading back to Seoul. I kept a look out for Olympic merchandise and marketing.

Marketing was subtle, Samsung had a large screen and interactive demos.

Olympic Gear Available in Incheon Airport
Olympic Gear Available in Incheon Airport

It took awhile to find any Olympic branded merchandise.  They only store I found was by gate 252 in the transfer terminal, that was marketed for the Olympics!

They do warn you to expect an increased time for additional screening through customs.

Increased Security Screening